Last Day in Tehran

The goal for the last day was to get a carpet and do something else as well. We went to Jomay Bazaar which is a parkade that turns into a Bazaar on Fridays(their main day off). Found a carpet that I liked for $250. After that Charles, Sally and I went to have brunch.

I have actually left out the fact that Westerners are seen as something of an oddity where they love to talk to you and try out their English. When I was in Imam Mosque in Esfehan, a girl told me that her Dad wanted to speak English with me. They wanted to know what country I was from, what I did for a living, and eventually it led to the whether I am single or not question. They got the cell number I had and thought they would talk to me further over coffee at their hotel, as they were visiting from Tehran. They did text me but I was already in Shiraz at that point. But it was arranged to go to their place in Tehran at 2:30pm on the last day of my visit.

So after getting the driver to drop me off, I went to their apartment. They were quite hospitable with the Dad asking questions and the Mother trying to feed me as much stuff as she could. I ended up talking with the girl, Behnoosh, and her sister most of the afternoon. They gave me gift of an Iranian picture, which strangely enough is the only thing I have from my trip right now. My bags are currently in London to arrive tomorrow. :-)

After talking for a while, it was fun, the mother, sister and Behnoosh were going to give me a ride home. I phoned the driver that he didn't need to pick me up and just pick me up at 5am to go to the airport tomorrow. When they were dropping they thought I could go to the cinema with them. So we went to an American movie with farsi subtitles. They dropped me off around midnight, I packed and went to bed.

It was an eventful return trip including the fact that my bags are currently in London and should arrive tomorrow.

Last day in Shiraz then back to Tehran

May 29th,

Sitting in a coffeenet before I go get my suitcase at the hotel and go to the airport. Kind of tired from running around to all the remaining sites in Shiraz.

Met up with Mahmoud outside of my hotel at 8:00 this morning. We went off to the Bagh-E Eram (Garden)(Photo above) which contains a nice palace of sorts along with beautiful gardens of specific plants. A must for any botanist in Shiraz.

Later, walked to a Arg-E Karim Khani which is a big fortress with a garden inside. A bunch of Iranians horded around me to talk to me in English and know what I thought of Iran. They are pretty excited about foreigners here.

Visited Pars Museum,Regent's Mosque(Masjed-e Vakil),Bazar-e Vakil(the Bazaar),Bagh-E Naranjenstan which is another garden with a sort of palace. Then we went to The tomb of another famous Iranian Poet Sa'di. There was a nice garden around his tomb.

Mahmoud invited me to his place where his parents made lunch and we rested during the hotter moments of the afternoon. At 5:00 we headed out to the Military Museum in Shiraz which also has the last Shah's palace where he like to play cards and entertain. Mahmoud dropped me off at the coffee net where I am typing this now.

Well, I am glad to be getting back onto a plane for Tehran tonight. Tomorrow's goal is to get a carpet at Jomay Bazaar. Then say goodbye's and try and pack all my stuff into my bags. Flying out at 8:30 and should get into Calgary in the evening I think.

Been a busy trip but yes I do plan another to Iran. People are pretty friendly and I liked it alot.

Full Day in Shiraz

Full Day in Shiraz. Today I took a tour with an agency to see the ancient ruins of
Persepolis,Naqsh-E Rostam, Naqsh-E Rajab, and Pasargadae. Persepoli(photo above) was really amazing and the others were nice too. Pasargadae was quite worn though. Met up with a Brit and a Singaporean and took a ton of pictures. Very hot and sunny out there.

I am definitely coming back to Iran. The tour was from 8am to about 5:45pm. Then I met up with Mahmoud, the English tutor and we went to the Tomb of Hafez. Hafez is a very famous poet in Iran. There were many people mourning him there. He is very important to the Iranians.

Then we saw some parks and went to the Quran Gateway, got some good night shots there. Tomorrow I will check out the rest of the sites in Shiraz. Then fly to Tehran late that night.

The people are friendly and love to try to speak to the foreigners. People stare at us alot. The Brit who is of Indian descent, the Singaporean, and myself were a valuable commodity in that people wanted to take their picures with us.

So off to bed, tomorrow should be more relaxed, then try and get a carpet Friday, then off to home.

Esfehan for the day, then off to Shiraz

Today, I got up early to check out a couple of sites in Esfehan before I had to catch my 15:45 flight to Shiraz. First was the Jameh Mosque which was fairly interesting but not as grand as Imam Square and the mosques there.

After that I went to check out Manar Jomban(photo above) which is tomb that has 2 towers. They used to let you climb the towers but now they only let you watch. Basically, a man climbs into one tower and shakes it back and forth. Then you get to see the 2nd tower shake as well. They are 10 metres apart. It is some mystery why this happens.

Back to the hotel to pick up my suitcase and head to the airport for my flight to Shiraz. Actually, flying is less hassle and cheaper than back home. A flight from Esfehan to Shiraz is about $30 and it is further than Calgary to Edmonton. I landed and got a taxi to the hotel. Checked in then headed out to see what I can see. I arranged a tour of Persepolis, Pasargadae, Naqsh-E Rostam and Naqsh-E Rajab from 8am to 5pm tomorrow. Seems really hot and dry here in Shiraz.

Also met an Iranian English student, Mahmoud, who bought me some ice cream because he wanted to speak with a native English speaker. We have arranged to meet tomorrow and the day after and will trade English conversation for a tour of Shiraz.

Well think I am off to get a kebob then back to the hotel for tomorrow.

Walking the bridges in Esfehan

I got pretty sore feet from walking around yesterday in those dress shoes. Today, I wore my running shoes as I wanted to see all the bridges in Esfehan. It is so sunny here, I am going to have a good tan when I get back.

There are about 4 very old bridges along the Zayandeh River here in Esfehan. It was quite a hike to get to the Shahrestan Bridge which was 3km past the Khaju Bridge. But I was pretty determined to see that one. All along you can see people resting in the shade studying or couples talking to one another. I stopped to get a coke and some ice cream and some Iranians gestured for me to sit with them. I was tired and said what the heck. They always have some standard phrases like Hello, How are you that they try on you. One of them made it understood that I should buy them some ice cream and I made it understood that he should buy me an icecream. His friends laughed at him.

After that massive walk along the river, I decided to mail some post cards. Got those off, then changed some more money as I wanted to pick up some souvenirs. I really like the copper kiln fired blue plates and vases. They are very nice. Still holding off on a carpet, just to fatiguing for that. I will try a last minute thing in Tehran Friday.

Had a little nap in Iman Square in the shade of some bush. Feels good to get a little sleep on a hot afternoon. Almost all the shops close down from about 2 to 5pm for a sieste. Almost like southern Europe. I tried walking around during that time but eventually came to the conclusion that they were mostly closed and I should just lie down and take a nap.

Did go to the Museum of Contemporary Art where they showed some paintings with a money theme. It was ok. The museums are very cheap here, about $1 or $2 so even if it is not so great you are not getting ripped off. They have a Natural History Museum with large dinosaur statues around it. I find that rather peculiar to see dinosaurs in a Muslim city. Probably no weirder than dinosaurs in the bible belt of the US I guess.

I have noticed that they like to say: Hello Mister! Where are you from? Then that leads into some chit chat followed up with a "Do you have some time to come to my shop?" It is all good, you just have to know what you like I guess and not get persuaded into buying something you don't want.

There are very few white tourists here. Walking around I saw a Scotsman and Irish lady that I saw yesterday that I chatted with. Other than that I see a few others. This really is not on the high list for most tourists. A shame as the people are quite friendly.

Tomorrow I am flying to Shiraz and I have to see Persepolis which is some ancient ruins along with some other sites there.

Esfehan Here I am!

Got up early and got ready for my flight to Esfehan. Managed alright and got to the hotel reasonably early and checked in. Figured out where the hotel was in relation to the main sites in Esfehan and started walking.

It is very sunny and I am getting a very nice farmer's tan. I headed right for Imam Square. There are 2 beautiful mosques here: Imam Mosque and Sheikh Lotfolla Mosque. The Imam Square is the second largest square in the world after Tiannamen. There are little hand made craft shops all along the edge. I just love the blue and yellow design of these mosques. I would have put photos but until I get to a computer where I can download them I can only describe them. This site is probably the thing I wanted to see most here in Iran. So beautiful. I tried to take some very nice pictures. Too bad they are doing some repairs in Imam Mosque, so could not get super great shots.

There are some local shopmen who come around and tell you to turn to page something of your lonely planet book to notice their shop is there. People come up and try and get you to come to their shops and show you their wares. I did get some of those nice jewelry boxes that I like with the nice design on them. I just don't know what a good price is and if I am getting quality. I try and look around and compare the prices to avoid getting ripped off.

Another Iranian came up and started speaking English, he held an English study book so I assumed he wanted to practice speaking. We went to a local teahouse and had some tea while others drank tea or smoked their hookahs. I told him I was interested in those blue painted copper vases. He said he studied art in University and knew where they made really good ones cheaply. Apparently, the previous President bought them from there. Never know if someone is telling you the truth or just feeding you a load of stuff.

We went there and I did find a really nice large one and a smaller one I wanted. Heck, I am in Iran and should get some keep sakes. Later compared with other stores and these ones are nicer for sure. Starting to get sore feet and baking under the sun.

Went to Chehel Sotun Palace, which is sort of an open palace apparently made of 40 pillars but they reduced it to 20 when making it. They said the reflection from the pool made it 40, doubling the 20. Then went to Hasht Behesht Palace which is another older palace located with a nice pool in a park.

I feel good here in the library at the computer but looking forward to maybe heading back to the hotel to shower and lay about reading and writing some post cards.

Tomorrow, I should check out some of the bridges here. I fly to Shiraz on Tuesday afternoon.

Golestan Palace, Pipe, and Early Night

In the Name of God!

Apparently, Charles did not pay his phone bill and that means I have to blog this entry a day late from a library in Esfehan the day after.

Yesterday, was just a jog to the park, then wait to go to the Bazaar to look for a carpet to buy. We went to the Tehran Bazaar and looked at some carpets. The problem with carpet buying is that they show you carpet after carpet and you just start to go dizzy. I am not sure what I want for a carpet but I want to get one. Having blue eyes does not help your bargaining position here in Iran either! :-) Ah, for Mr. Blue Eyes and light hair, let's add 50 - 100% :-)

After a while, Charles' driver said we could go to Jomay Bazaar which is every Friday after I get back from Shiraz. I guess that is when I will bite the bullet on a carpet to go home with. We then went to Golestan Palace by the Bazaar. It was the palace for the Shah before the Reza Shah. Lots of nice rooms, some entirely with intricate mirrors all along the walls.

Then went to some shop and picked out a Hookah pipe with all the accessories. I also got 3 types of fruity tobacco. Going to have to have some people to try that out when I get back. It is too much work for one person to work the full pipe.

Hung out at Charles' for a bit before we went out for dinner and talked about the old Legion days and where we saw ourselves going. We were at a restaurant where they put out national flags on the tables. He was particularly put out that they had the Swedish flag but not the Norweigian flag. He said that the one thing that the Swedish have that the Norwegians do not have is good neighbours!

Went to bed early because I had a 6:30 flight to Esfehan to catch.

Friday at Jamsheedy Park

Today is Friday, which is the equivalent of Sunday in the western world. The shops are closed. Probably not much different from Friday afternoons in the office!

Got up and jogged down to Park E Mellat again today. There were some guys doing some pretty weird exercises at the public exercise stations there. But I guess it is good for them. Some of them were trying to help me with the pullups but I said Nah Merci to that. One old guy in the park said "You are Khrelly Sport". But nothing tops those ladies who jog around with their scarves on their heads, that is amazing.

Since my goal is to do some shopping tomorrow, I have to profit from today to see something in Tehran. I think I have seen most things to see here but it was recommended to see Jamsheedi Park. This park is in the Northern part of Tehran at the foot of the mountains. It is a pretty steep park with lots of stone paths and steps. Apparently, a favorite of Mohammed Reza Shah but eventually opened to the public. Instead of hot dogs and hamburgers, families come and lay out a blanket and cook kebabs. It was a nice day, very sunny.

Tehran is a pretty dry city. Not sure if I mentioned it but I see lots of blue pools in Tehran but most are empty without water.

I think I have seen most of the prime sites to see in Tehran and looking forward to Esfehan and Shiraz. I am not sure how I will get updates when I am in Esfehan and Shiraz. Probably an internet cafe but doubtful they will allow me to upload pictures from my camera. My driver was saying that the quality of neighbourhoods and people decreases as you go South in Tehran. I guess I am lucky to be staying in the North.

National Museum of Iran

Today, I was sort of recovering from last night which was pretty nice. There was a party and Mina and her younger sister, Moshgone, came. There was a fair bit more merriment than you would expect to have. :-) Good mix of multilingual French, Persians, a Norwegian, and a Canadian.

Went for a jog down Valiasr Ave. and into Park E Mellat. Found a place to do some pullups which was nice. Even noticed a lady that had full on head coverage and was running in the park. I had to pick up the pace because I did not want her to pass me in the park! But my hat goes off to her for running like that.

Mina called and offered to help look at carpets later in the day. Went back to the penthouse(:-)) for a shower and to get ready to go out. Planned to go see the National Museum of Iran.

Went to see the National Museum, mostly it is pottery, ancient pieces, etc. Some pieces that were returned from Persepolis which is in Shiraz. Interestingly, I saw a piece that was a copy of the original that is in the Louvre. The French were nice enough to give the Iranians a copy of the piece while they kept the original in France. :-)

Upstairs there is the Museum of the Islamic period. Not too big with Islamic art pieces, weapons, ceramics, etc.

After we walked over to the Malek National Museum, just to see it from the outside. It is only open from Sunday to Wednesday, so I won't have a chance to see it. I took some photos from the outside(The above photo was taken there).

Got a call from Mina to meet about some carpets. The driver and I went to a coffee shop where we had a Turkish coffee and I had some Iranian pastry. Pretty good stuff. I have also notice there are lots of blue pools in Tehran but almost all of them are empty! :-)

Met up with Mina and her elder(est) computer sister, Afsah, and her 2 daughters. I appreciate her help alot but did not see sort of what I was looking for. They had some Klemes(not sure about the spelling) which I didn't really want. They are carpets but you can see the knots on the other side. I think I will try the Tehran bazaar on Saturday as stores here are closed on Fridays. I leave for my little Esfehan-Shiraz trip Sunday to Thursday. This means I only have this Saturday to do my shopping since I also fly out next Saturday morning. A hookah pipe is also an item I want, why don't Westerners use a hookah I really do wonder.

I am looking forward to my trip as I think I have seen most of the sites in Tehran. I have my airplane tickets and hotel tickets for Esfehan-Shiraz. I must admit I am rather spoiled during this trip. Mina said that when she came over to the party that it was the first time she had seen a penthouse in Tehran. Also, that it is my first time in Tehran and it is me inviting her and her sister to a party! I guess that is how I roll when I am in Tehran! ;-)

This trip is what I really needed, a trip with some serious edge but having perks like a driver, posh place to stay, a cell phone makes life very bearable here. I think I will come back pretty recharged in Canada.

Couple of Museums

Today, I visisted the Carpet Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum. The Carpet Museum had lots of fancy carpets varying from relatively recent to over 200 years old. The Contemporary Art Museum had a huge exhibit of Iran Darroudi. We then walked around Park Laleh. All three are very close together.

Then we went to Azida Square which is a huge structure that means freedom square. Tonight, we are having a party, so see how that goes.

Hiking in Tehran

The plan was to hike at Touchal which is in the Northern part of Tehran where people can hike or ski in the winter. Keeping this blog up to date is not easy, was going to log the previous day but was risking being late so did it later. Not sure about how to blog while in Esfehan and Shiraz, maybe internet cafe or just keep a paper journal.

Met up with Mina at 7:00am, then went to Touchal. We hiked a ways up before turning back. It is a hike but it is pretty dry and hot, not like hiking in the Rockies. There were some nice roses that lined the hiking road. After hiking up a ways, we came back down and took the gondola up 2 stations where there was a restaurant/station. Sat and had some breakfast, pita bread with honey, cheese, nuts, etc. with coffee tea. After that we came back down and called the driver to come get us.

We went to Tajereesh Bazaar and had a look around for stuff to buy. Mina is looking to bring back Saffron but prices have gone up since she was there last. I bought a little jewelry box and 2 makeup mirrors. We had some pomegranate drink and I had some traditional Iranian ice cream. Trying to pick up little things from Iran. I do want to get a Hookah pipe ;-) and a small carpet yet. Mina went off to visit friends and the driver(Mohamee) and I went to see the Shah's palaces.

Apparently, nose jobs are very popular in Tehran. You can see women walking around with bandages on their noses. For muslim women it is all in the face, so rather than tatoos, piercings, the nose jobs seem to be the fashion. Mina can tell those who have had them, she also said if she stayed another month, she would get one.

Reza Shah is the Shah before the last one and Mohamed Reza Shah is the one that the Yanks and Brits put in power before the revolution. Seems like they get these shahs and whenever they aren't happy with them, they have a revolution to get them out.
The palaces were very nice, they like French furniture. Reza Shah Palace had some very intricate rooms where the whole room was covered in intricate mirror detailing. The photo above is at the entry of the Reza Shah's palace, seems smaller than his son's but higher quality and better(higher) location on the same grounds. Some guys wanted to have a picture with me because I was from Canada.

Came home, Sally got some stuff for the party tomorrow night. I actually tried some Zoolbia(Iranian desert) for the first time. I am probably one of the few people in the world who tried to make it at home without ever trying it first. So I now know what it is like. I will try and make it proper when I get home.

So I think I will try and relax tonight, tomorrow I am going to hope to see th Carpet Museum, and Tehran Museum of Contemorary Art, Park-E Laleh, and maybe the Azadi Square. Charles is also having a party in the evening.

Not sure how this blogging thing is going to continue, seems like a bit of work! Internet connections are dialup and slow here too. Facebook users beware because the site is filtered so you can't get too it in Iran. Youtube is also blocked.

Playing Frogger in Tehran

Today, I was trying to line up my trip to Esfehan and Shiraz. Basically I will leave Sunday morning to Esfehan for a few days, then Shiraz, then back in Tehran Thurday night. Friday is open, then fly out Saturday morning.

I planned to visit the Carpet Museum meeting up with Mina and her niece Bahar. Unfortunately, it was closed so we decided to check out the Tehran Bazaar which is a very old market place where you can buy all sorts of things. It is huge. Had some lunch.

Went to a carpet salesman who was talking my ear off, but am thinking about getting a small carpet for a souvenir. After the bazaar we went back to the driver, Mina and Bahar left. Then I went to Valiasr Avenue and Park E Mellat, which is a big park(green space)(The photo above taken there). Went home and tried to get some sleep. Charles had some obligation at the Norweigian embassy. I had arranged to go hiking at Touchal(located in the Northern part of Tehran) with Mina the next morning.

Frogger must be the favorite video game of Iranians. The crosswalks practically never work so you have to sort of walk out and stand between lanes or in the middle of the street and wait for your next opportunity to advance. A little scary at first, but I guess it is a skill that is developed here like the drivers who use the force. If you are lucky you can piggy back the skill of some Iranian who is crossing and just follow them.

Went out to dinner with Charles and Sally to some Asian food restaurant. Went to bed early to get up for the hike tomorrow.

First day

Well the first day went relatively well, went out for a jog and hung out at the apartment for the morning. Charles, his driver and I went out for some lunch at the Blue Duck. A driver for me, Mr. Baghdadi, was arranged so I could get around in Tehran to see the sites.

Driving here is very different. They seem to merge without any concept of lanes, they just all funnel through intersections knowing when to move forward and when to let the other person proceed. It is like they drive with some "Starwars Force". Driving here would be a challenge for Westerners for sure.

In the evening, we(Charles, Sally(his gf), and me) went to some Tea Gardens place and had some fruit drinks. This was followed up by a visit to some town outside of Tehran(starts with a D) where I could try a hookah. The smoke flavour was apple. Very very relaxing, I need to get one of those for back home in Calgary!

Well, today I am going to go exchange some money, arrange my flights and hotel to Esfehan and Shiraz later this week. I should have a driver for my duration in those cities as well. That is so nice indeed! After that is arranged, Mina, visiting from Calgary, is supposed to help show me around to some of the sites today.

Charles is having a party at his place on Wednesday night. The weekends in Iran are Thursday and Friday. I invited Mina, but she has to check as her family is arranging some trip later this week.

Arrived in Tehran!

After 8 hours to London and a little 6 hour flight from London to Tehran, I am finally here.

I was met at the airport by Charles and sat in the Commercial Important Person Lounge while my luggage was retrieved. His driver took us home, it takes a certain skill to drive here.:-)

I am pretty sure I was the only "white" guy on the plane from London to Tehran. :-)

I am currently in a penthouse suite which is pretty luxurious with 2 sun decks on either side of the apartment. There are rose beds bordering the sun decks.If I look out one of the sun decks I can see the Esteghlal Hotel which is pretty close.

I am supposed to be sleeping but really can't right now. I am going to spend the morning here. This afternoon I should see some things, he is going to see if the driver is lined up for me.

Going to Iran

This is where I plan to record some thoughts on my upcoming trip to Iran. This trip sort of evolved out of learning some Farsi at the company I was working at last year. It has been a year of change for me, changing jobs, finishing up my Master's degree, and a couple of other events I would rather not go into details. So finally a trip to Iran is in order I suppose to reach ground zero for me.

I did buy a lonely planet book in Iran and basically came up with the heart of the visit which should be spending time seeing sights in Tehran, Esfehan, and Shiraz. I started looking into arranging the visa which is the biggest hurdle to get over. Most people think I am crazy for going to Iran for a vacation. They think it is a warzone or that I am off to the desert for some terrorist training! Truth is that I need a trip that is a little edgy.

I have a friend, whom I knew in my days when I was a French Foreign Legionnaire, who works and lives in Tehran. That last sentence, when I think about it, is crazier than talking about visiting Iran. I sent him and email and he offered some incredible help to me. Well, he was helpful in arranging a visa for me and offering up his home to me when I get to Tehran. This is amazing and I am so grateful to him for this.

I also have a good friend in Calgary who is Iranian who has helped coach a bit in the culture and let me try some of the Farsi I know. I also appreciate that help greatly. I leave this Friday and hope log my experiences here as they happen.